Fried chicken whilst usually associated with a rather known chain, a certain Colonel and greasy takeaway boxes is getting a culinary makeover in London’s restaurant scene right now, a welcome change having consumed what seems a lifetimes worth of burgers in the course of 2012. And competition of who is serving the best take on this Deep South classic is getting increasingly tense with the likes of Rita’s in Dalston serving up a crispy chicken roll worth fighting over and every burger joint offering their version of buffalo wings. It was therefore only a matter of time before part of the team behind infamous burger operation MEATLiqour would try and put their own unique twist on it, joining the vibrant restaurant scene emerging in Brixton market which is offering an ever growing assortment of different cuisine to far from Central London pricing in an unusual but fun environment. At Wishbone, the result of their take on this classic fried food, chicken is truly the star of the show, the menu focusing on wings and boneless thigh and catering for all tastes whether you like it fiery hot like the Thai thighs or wonderfully fragrant and spiced like the excellent Korean fried wings. Sides are equally as imaginative and reflect the creativity that has gone into a menu that I feel is worth crossing from my usual culinary hunts North and East into South for. Particularly addictive and indulgent is the deep fried mac n cheese, little breaded nuggets filled with steaming hot cheesy goodness and the hot mess, fries doused in buffalo sauce and speckled with blue cheese. Light or elegant food as you may gather this is definitely not, the tables filled with kitchen roll and wet wipes and the food served in disposable grease paper lined containers. This doesn’t matter however if the end product is as good as is the case here. I’d advice to come hungry and wash it down with one of their tailored to your taste cocktails, with great value for money (you’d be pushed hard including a cocktail and a food coma at the end to spent more than £20) this is incredibly good value for money. Wishbone successfully reinterprets and perfects a guilty pleasure food, using free range hens and great flavours, to make this a place you want call your secret junk food haven.
Chicken shop thighs, coleslaw, hot mess, deep fried mac n cheese and Korean wings